Tagged: fuel flap cable
Fuel flap release cable and motor
Johan VlagsmaParticipantOctober 3, 2016 at 2:20 pmPost count: 94
The steel cable that releases the fuel flap has snapped. It happens after 26 years.. The cable is still on stock at gcp.se so I already have a new one coming shortly. Any tips on how to mount it? Do I really need to get the rear side card out?
Another one: the electric motor for the fuel flap does not work. That probably accounts for using the lever a lot in the past causing it to snap. Any tips on that particular motor? Is it the same as on other Volvo’s of the era?
Any help greatly appreciated
JohannckPOLParticipantOctober 4, 2016 at 12:08 pmPost count: 27
first of all – what do you mean that e-motor does not work? It is not releasing flap? you dont hear it?
it works very quite and it role is release the spring that makes bolt push the flap – that all. check that you still have there that spring – I don’t and thats why my flap is not recoiling
about cable – you just need to disassembly driver side of trunk and you will get access to cable and electric motorDaviesParticipantOctober 5, 2016 at 2:23 pmPost count: 134
If the cable for the fuel door is like the rear trunk, which I assume it is, the job wasn’t too bad. I simply “fished” the new cable in the hole a the B pillar door jam (first taking out the phillips screw that holds in the lever). With the trunk release the cable moved fairly easily through the conduit and came out where I could reattach it. You would have to pull back the carpet and side card to access the fuel release. It should be a similar process of pulling in the new cable and then reattaching and securing it.
I was able to get a suitable cable from a bike shop (brake style cable) for about $4.00 that worked with just the right amount of cable for the trunk latch.
With the fuel door, I too am having issues with the button on the dash not releasing but my first priority with the fuel door opening is to replace the rubber stops that cause the door to pop open when the latch is pulled. Those rubber stops have compressed so even if the latch is opened the door doesn’t pop open and I have to pull it open by hand. The spring is wound and I know will pull the door open as well but it looks like the later 780 doors (90 and 91s for sure) had a different door opening/stopper design. Anyone tried to replace the stoppers? Let me know how the cable repair goes.Johan VlagsmaParticipantAugust 2, 2017 at 1:06 pmPost count: 94
It has been a while but the fuel door cable and motor have been replaced a few days ago. I used the inner cable only and left the outer mantle in place. The descriptions above are pretty accurate. The old motor does work but seems less strong, anyway replaced it as I had one available. Lubricated the pin and lined up things and that helped also. At the same time also replaced the inner cable for the rear trunklid. It had a few broken strands because it pulls in a tight radius over sharp edges. I put 2 tie wraps there to avoid breaking the cable. Also routed the outer cable better with a less sharp bend from side to back of the car so it moves more freely. Another small job done 🙂
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