Home Forums Mechanical Cold Blooded PVR V6


Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)

Cold Blooded PVR V6

  • Author
  • CorridaCorrida
    Post count: 8
    #13253 |

    Hi Everyone,


    I have had my 87, 780 for almost three years and she has always had this one constant problem. I do not know if other 780’s with the PVR V6 engine have this issue. I have filed through forums through many websites and no one else has mentioned this problem. She has a very cold-blooded engine, very cold indeed. I have to idle the engine for 15 minutes before she runs properly.  Sometimes when I set off, the engine spits and sends a steady vibration which rocks the car. Then almost by magic she smooths out and feels right/powerful. When the engine is warmed up the car is very quick and buttery smooth however, if I sit at a red-light, the engine starts to idle poorly, making the RPM needle dance between 15oo-500 RPMs. Sometimes she can stall or just make the famous idiot lights faintly come on. I am finding that using a fuel cleaner (Royal Purple) can help tremendously and pretty much solves the problem temporarily. I use 87 octane level because of the V6, should I be using something else? I’ve replaced, fuel filter/pump, wires, plugs, and the exhaust system.

    What am I missing?



    Thank you

    Keep ’em Rolling.

    Christophermercon@gmail.comChristopher Mercon
    Post count: 21

    I am of the opinion that the PVR V6 ran on magic and prayers.  The one PVR V6 780 I had would run perfect one day and then not start for a day then start and then may die for half a day then run for 20 mins then die for 3 weeks. you get the idea. There seemed to be no logic whatsoever to the way these things were wired.

    Johan VlagsmaJohan Vlagsma
    Post count: 70

    Hi Sean,

    Have you checked the basics? I would probably start by checking the entire intake side for air leaks, torn hoses, poor fitting clamps etc. but also all gaskets in the intake right to the block. Idle rpm hunting is an indicator for air leaks. Especially look for hoses that are normally tight but eg when bending have a leak, this gives the occasional problems like you mention


    PS have converted your car so the specs are right: http://780coupe.com/ownership/sean-corbin-none/

    Post count: 8

    Thank you Christopher and Johan for replying. The note on RPM hunting is very helpful and I will pay close attention to the intake side.  She has 135,000 miles and I wonder how high these engines go in milage.


    Thank you for your time.


    PS Thank you Johan for changing the specs.

    Post count: 87


    I would also check the distributor cap, rotator, spark plugs and spark plug wires.

    Post count: 53

    Late to post but I wonder if this has been solved? I did not see anyone mention the MAF sensor; they get dirty, they go bad and can cause all sorts of problems. Also you can check the wiring to, and the actual coolant temp sensors- if it runs better when hot it may be an issue with that.

    I’ve worked on a variety of PRV engines for over 15 years now, I’ve seen them click past 200,000 miles. I find them to be extremely reliable – never have I once been stranded by a PRV powered car. If you start with the regular maintenance items and take care of them, they will last a very long time.

    Post count: 8

    Thanks dn010,

    I have yet to check the MAF sensor and I am not sure why, through checking the wires, plugs, vacuum hoses etc, I must have glazed over it somehow. Now that it is summer I no longer need to run the engine for 15 min, I just turn her on and go (very convenient). In the spring I used a fuel line cleaner called Royal Purple and boy what a difference.  The main thing that I find with my engine is that either burns too much fuel at times or the idle is a little bit off while I’m stationary at a traffic light.  Sense using the product Royal Purple my PVR is running wonderfully but she does still have a rough idle at times when  stationary.

    Post count: 13

    I am looking for maintenace checklist for the B280F (V6 PRV) to keep it at “Stage 0”.

    Is there a Green book outlining this?   When (time/mileage) things should be checked/renewed?


Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.